Not much climbing action

Well since last posting iv manage to get out twice. Not a huge amount done but some new discoveries. I found an ivy covered face in some woods with nice arete a wall and then the lip of a curving overhang. I spent 2 hours pulling ivy and still have to go back with a ladder to finish cleaning but should be worth it. I also found some hidden gems on the Gower coast. There is a couple of high ball babes to go and found a great problem pulling on tiny scoops. Unfortunately I ran out of time to make much head way. I am very excited about finding some mountain bouldering not if it is how I hope It is going to be there will be lots of nice bouldering in great wild setting 2 hours from the road or it could be a load of rubbish with no bouldering or very little but I am going to take a look and hope for the best. Well that's all for now have a new HD mini cam my wife bought me so look at for some films of any action.

New Boulder Problem On Gower

Thursday 20th Oct day off work dodge weather but headed out in desperation to climb. I went to check out some new possibilities I had spotted on my travels around Gower. I thought I was going to blast through 4 or 5 new boulder problems but o no. Turned out that one problem will have to have a bit more training and attention and another wall will need a lot more of both and a few extra pads.

I did have fun though doing a new problem I called it Avoid The Obvious. Sit start with both hands on a big ledge feet smeared just above the lip of a small roof, big reach up with right to poor small edge with thumb catch, left leg up to rockover left hand up to 2 fingers jammed in a flared v slot. Get stood on ledge and work left hand to good hold a pleasant smear move reaches the top. Video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StJI9k0a_1g&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Time to train to nail the great wall I was to weak to do

NEWS New Finds

Had an explore the other weekend on Gower when the weather was poor and stumbled across some new boulder problems. Most are non tidal which is rare for gower the rock is amazing some great features so can't wait to get over Flue and a dry spell to have some fun. Watch this space for news photos and Vids

Deep Water Soloing Rhossili

Saturday 3rd september headed down Rhossili sea cliffs without climbing partner who was a no show. But man why have I not been here before pre off scope valor have been soloed by tony rees I did some traversing and some up routes but had to leave the stuff I wanted to do as on my own. Lots of 4 5 and 6a & b to do some quite high but the best looking route was a m crockery e5 6a on a good looking wall and arete so next low tide need to check depth hopefully there will be 5m of water and game on for a try. Also spied out other possible new lines. So here is to hopping for sunny days in September while the water is still 16 degrees to have a bash.

13 yrs on Tony does Sky Lark

My mate Tony did sky lark e2 5c. Yellow wall on gower on Thursday good show tony. Funny story 13yrs ago he was unable to follow me up this route nice 1 son and he is off to yosimite in Sep see his blog outdoortony.blogspot.com

Friday night play

Nipped out tonight was tipping down when leaving the house but commitment paid off. Mumbles found a traverse to play on some nice heel hook moves along the lip of a roof while being attacked by megalewrians jumping out of the cracks. Short vid on YouTube under Friday night move bouldering gower

Gower route of the week

Starting next week Gower route of the week. A personal choice of routes to go do on Gower. They may not have the most stars but something makes them worth experiencing and enjoying. Go do them and leave your thoughts watch this space.

Grit Comes To Swansea Valley

A video still of the first accent of The Feeling at a secret venue in the Swansea Valley great line and NO it is not in the Peaks. It takes a steady line up an arete. A difficult starting overhang a long reach followed by committing step up and of balance reach to a good hold and one more move to a round top out. See the vid on YouTube search for The Feeling first accent. I have 2 more lines to do on the wall will then reveal all to the world. Ok its ok spot locals will like.

Nearly got my self in the shit

Nipped out for hour on the rock tonight to a cliff were I have a 6m highball boulder problem project. I had no intention of doing it because you need at least 2 mats 3 would be best. I did the other sensible stuff and then decided to play on the start of my project. Like I said its 6m high but was 8 today as the pebbles were low. A tricky start leads to a roof and a very long reach to an ok hold for your right-hand you have to commit to this then bring left around to join and crank . So I get up to the roof tonight and find myself reaching over the roof getting the hold and for a second was going to go for it. But thankfully a quick glance down to see my mat look very small and the pebble landing waiting for me if I went and blew it. I got my self back under the roof decided to check what the jump from here would be like ouch my bad ankle felt it ( I snapped my Achilles and ankle ) but hay it could have been worse tonight if I had gone for it. So Im of to borrow more mat's and get it done and hope more stones come back so its 6m not 8m.

First work out after 2 weeks of eating and drinking went ok surprisingly. Time to get on the rock hit gower sport routes. I borrowed gogarth north guide from mate tony and am inspired not by the classics but some of the less known routes there are some adventures to be had if you look need to. sort a trip.

whoops

So much for bloging adventures. Since last time been bouldering had a surf boy its been to long since I did that. Managed to get out with my mate tony for some sport climbing on Gower at third sister. That was cool we ain't seen each other for ages. Tony will pop up a lot on this blog we have had some adventures and he just had his first babe well done him.
Well more to come

climbing news

I completed a nice boulder problem down at Rams grove gower. It was the second session trying it I was joined by a group of ladies working out not the beach. Bigger news fair play to Dave mcloud for freeing the direct to the long hope route on hoy in orkney amazing pics on his blog

My first blog

Iv decided to blog my climbing adventures and anything else along the way. I'm no pro climber but hopefully there will be some good stuff happen and pics to. Now I just have to learn to use the thing.