Progress

I finally made some progress at my secret bouldering spot.

Bouldering is supposed to be a simple affair but I was loaded up with rope, harness, rock boots, chalk bag, brushes, bouldering mat and various gardening tools.

Today was my 5th visit and they have all been cleaning, cleaning, cleaning up until today. I have never had to do so much cleaning at any of my previous New finds.

The main problem with this venue is not the routes themselves but the tops and once you have cleaned the tops you have to come back when it's dry to be able to brush off the left over soil.

Back to today and after all the rain we have had I had set my sight on cleaning the finishing ledge of a cool looking face that looks like it belongs at Stanage. I ab over the messy top to the ledge and get to it 2 hours later I can do no more and need to return when its dry to give it a brush.

Sat at the bottom considering going to start work on another of the cliffs I noticed the the 1st half of one problem was dry so I decided to get on it.

You will see in the picture the start has a low overhang followed by a smaller one before the wall starts which itself is slight overhanging.

The sit start turned out harder than I thought. On first inspection it looked like you could reach the next hold while your feet were still under the roof but not even my long arms could make it. A good old fashion rock up was needed which took me about 12 goes in the end. The wall above has sustained interest on small crimps but I had to stop 2 or 3 moves from the top as it was wet.

It's going to be a good problem and the others look good to if a little harder but the bald arete looks like it is going to be a tough one which has a fallen tree in the landing zone that needs shifting and I haven't figured out the best way of the ledge the problems finish at ? 

Well more cleaning next time and hopefully at least one problem.

New Bouldering in South Wales

So on my birthday 21st November 2012 I had a day off but not much time to climb I choose to go check out some rock I spotted in some woods a few yrs back while out walking when I was recovering from a broken ankle and snapped Achilles.

I wasn't expecting much just because south wales has so little rock that hasn't been discovered but there might be something. I hike up into the woods trying to remember which way I went and how far down the path it was then there up through the trees what looks like some rock big small I can't yet tell.

I scramble up a steep bank covered in brambles watched by a bewildered walker and his dog. I stand there faced with a steep hill covered in brambles but what I see entices me to brave the bush wack. I walk up the hill like a sprint hurdler warming up with a high cocked leg and stamping down the brambles.

Before I know it I'm stood below the first peace of rock. I'm excited its a good size square face with a small overhang at it's base.Initially looking a bit tall but a good size ledge 6ft from the top will allow escape. It needs a scrub and some grass removing but it's got good wall lines and round arete's not to many obvious holds all good so far. I look up to my left to see another wall I scramble up and around to find a short wall with some nice looking problems to be had yet more cleaning needed.

It is all natural sandstone resembling small gritstone edges straight from the Peak District Moors. I walk further to the left and I stand starring in amazement & excitement. A clean orange wall some 20ft high & 5m wide which overhangs all the way by about 10 degrees wow water drops from the top land about 2ft from the base. The landing area is flat ( covered in brambles ) but this bad boy is going to need a couple of mats and some spotters to stop you going off the ledge and tumbling all the way back to the path.

I'm out of time and need to head back. As I scramble back to take the slight path I made on the way up my eye catches a red piece of rock 100m to the right o well I'm here now might as well check it out. A pleasant bush wack across the hill springs up another gem perfect bouldering height, perfect rock o yea.

I head back to the car already planning my return. I did manage to get back a week later and spent 2hrs cleaning and more work is needed its mainly the top outs but it is going to give some real good bouldering. I'm looking forward to getting on the problems some look to hard for me at the moment.

As the go I shall report i'm aiming for the end of January start of February to start the fun watch this space.

2012 Bouldering

Well the yr started well a new gritstone bouldering area found in the mountains some first ascents then it all tailed off there were a few more 1st ascents but the weather injury and other things just didn't let it happen. The end of the yr brought positives though some New cliffs found that look brilliant and adventure days out to check out possibly South Wales best bouldering find ever. 2013 the yr of finding.