New Bouldering in South Wales

So on my birthday 21st November 2012 I had a day off but not much time to climb I choose to go check out some rock I spotted in some woods a few yrs back while out walking when I was recovering from a broken ankle and snapped Achilles.

I wasn't expecting much just because south wales has so little rock that hasn't been discovered but there might be something. I hike up into the woods trying to remember which way I went and how far down the path it was then there up through the trees what looks like some rock big small I can't yet tell.

I scramble up a steep bank covered in brambles watched by a bewildered walker and his dog. I stand there faced with a steep hill covered in brambles but what I see entices me to brave the bush wack. I walk up the hill like a sprint hurdler warming up with a high cocked leg and stamping down the brambles.

Before I know it I'm stood below the first peace of rock. I'm excited its a good size square face with a small overhang at it's base.Initially looking a bit tall but a good size ledge 6ft from the top will allow escape. It needs a scrub and some grass removing but it's got good wall lines and round arete's not to many obvious holds all good so far. I look up to my left to see another wall I scramble up and around to find a short wall with some nice looking problems to be had yet more cleaning needed.

It is all natural sandstone resembling small gritstone edges straight from the Peak District Moors. I walk further to the left and I stand starring in amazement & excitement. A clean orange wall some 20ft high & 5m wide which overhangs all the way by about 10 degrees wow water drops from the top land about 2ft from the base. The landing area is flat ( covered in brambles ) but this bad boy is going to need a couple of mats and some spotters to stop you going off the ledge and tumbling all the way back to the path.

I'm out of time and need to head back. As I scramble back to take the slight path I made on the way up my eye catches a red piece of rock 100m to the right o well I'm here now might as well check it out. A pleasant bush wack across the hill springs up another gem perfect bouldering height, perfect rock o yea.

I head back to the car already planning my return. I did manage to get back a week later and spent 2hrs cleaning and more work is needed its mainly the top outs but it is going to give some real good bouldering. I'm looking forward to getting on the problems some look to hard for me at the moment.

As the go I shall report i'm aiming for the end of January start of February to start the fun watch this space.